Into the foothills of Rinjani
We leave Senggigi in the morning and follow the coast north, then climb into the Sembalun valley — cooler air, garlic fields and Rinjani standing over everything. You swim under a jungle waterfall that will almost certainly be yours alone — we get there before anything with four wheels can. The sun goes down from Bukit Selong, looking out over the whole valley, and you sleep with the mountain outside the window.